As the weather starts to warm up, your you might want to get your outdoor spaces looking fresh.This post is therefore jam-packed with all the expert tips to help you tackle your projects!
Prep like a Pro
As you may know, prepping outdoor surfaces by cleaning and sanding is a crucial step. However, in these specific situations, you want to be even more careful. Let’s look at some different woods you might come accross.
“Oily Wood – Moist Wood – Grey Wood”.
Natural Oils.
Some varieties of wood, such as teak, contain high levels of natural oils. While paint may initially adhere to the surface, it only bonds with the top layer of wood fibers that have lost some of their oils by weathering. However, the paint may struggle to fully integrate with the deeper layers of wood fibers. You should be aware that although you can paint the wood, the paint may only look good for a few seasons.
Treated Wood.
For wood previously treated with oil or any chemical preservative, it’s advisable to let it season for a year. If you prefer not to wait, wiping it down with mineral spirits is an option. After using mineral spirits, we recommend cleaning it with Fusion TSP alternative to further remove excess oil. Allow it to dry completely, then sand it with medium/150 grit before painting.
Previously painted wood with oil-based paint.
No worries here! Sometimes a specific primer, called conversion primer, is used to help a water-based paint adhere to the previous layer of oil-based paint. However, because Fusion utilizes an industrial-grade acrylic as its main component, this step is not necessary.
High humidity.
In regions with frequent rain or snow, it´s crucial that the wood you´re painting is dry. When the wood is already saturated with water, paint won´t be absorbed and will not adhere.
Weathered (Grey) Wood.
Your paint work will only be as good as the condition of the surface. If you´re painting weathered old/grey wood, there´s a high risk that the paint might begin peeling within a year. While the paint may initially adhere to the wood its deteriorating condition will eventually cause the paint to peel off. Our recommendation is to do a heavy sanding to remove the weathered wood. Keep sanding until you reveal as much newer and brighter wood as possible. Afterward, apply a primer specifically designed for outdoor use to ensure complete adhesion of Fusion to the wood (unless you will be painting with milk paint, more about that in a moment).
Milk Paint or Fusion Mineral Paint?
Both are great options for most outdoor projects. However, here are some exceptions:
For plastic and iron furniture we recommend Fusion Mineral Paint. Milk Paint is designed to be absorbed by wood, which is not possible with plastic and iron materials.
For bare wood and weathered grey wood, we recommend Milk Paint. It has the unique ability to bind with wood fibers, resulting in exceptional durability. In the case of weathered wood, heavy sanding is still necessary, but a primer for adhesion is not required.
Painting plastic or iron furniture with Fusion!
Oh yes, and it is so easy to do as well.
When to use a top coat?
Adding a top coat like Fusion Tough Coat can give your outdoor projects that little extra protection. It’s not necessary to apply a top coat if you’re confident that all the nooks and crannies have been painted and there are no gaps where water can seep in. This complete encapsulation is possible with doors and trim work but may be a challenge when painting garden furniture.
On Milk Paint.
Since milk paint is porous and not water-resistant, it will always require a top coat. A fantastic option is Tung Oil. It’s crucial to thin your initial application of Tung oil with mineral spirits to ensure it penetrates the wood, especially for hardwoods. It’s recommended to gradually build up thin layers for optimal results.
Here’s how to apply it effectively:
Apply Tung Oil using a natural bristle brush, following the wood grain.
For the first coat we dilute with 40% mineral spirits, with 10% for the second coat. The third coat is applied pure.
Wipe off any excess oil with a clean lint free cloth.
Allow the Tung Oil to penetrate the surface for 24 hours.
Apply subsequent coats with the recommended 24h curing time in between. We recommend three layers in total. Always wipe away the excess oil. This is crucial to avoid the oil drying in patches.
Special note *only when applying Tung Oil on brand new raw wood*
After sanding, wet the wood to raise the grain. Let it dry for at least 24 hours. The wood will feel rougher, which helps the Tung Oil soak in. The first coat should be thinned with mineral spirits. For hardwoods: 30% Tung Oil 70% mineral spirits. For softwoods: 50/50.
If you live in an area where you cannot source Tung Oil, we recommend Hemp Oil or Stain and Finishing Oil as alternatives. It’s important to note that you may need to apply more layers of hemp oil and Stain and Finishing Oil compared to Tung Oil.
If you need any help or advice with painting outdoors please feel free to contact us.