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Dans ce court tutoriel, Annie vous montre comment peindre rapidement et facilement un radiateur avec . Annie a ici opté pour la couleur Chicago Grey. Comme toujours, veillez à bien mélanger votre peinture avant chaque utilisation.
5. Appliquez la peinture pinceaux Chalk Paint™ ont été spécialement conçus pour la peinture Chalk Paint™, mais n’importe quel autre pinceau fera l’affaire.
6. Le métal étant un matériau non-poreux, la peinture n’est pas absorbée. Par conséquent, la première couche peut être irrégulière et prendra plus de temps à sécher. Pas de panique, c’est normal ! Veillez simplement à respecter les temps de séchage entre chaque couche. Dans certains cas, une troisième couche de Chalk Paint™ pourra être nécessaire pour obtenir un résultat lisse et uniforme.
7. Une fois le radiateur peint et sec, vous pouvez, si vous le souhaitez, ajouter une couche de cire ou de laque Chalk Paint™. Lorsque vous allumerez votre radiateur, la chaleur émise permettra à la peinture Chalk Paint™ de se fixer. L’utilisation de la cire ou de la laque Chalk Paint™ est facultative, cependant cette option a ses avantages : durabilité accrue et facilité de nettoyage (ce qui est un vrai plus si le radiateur se trouve dans une zone industrielle). Annie n’utilise en général aucune laque ou cire pour ses radiateurs.
8. *ASTUCE* Pour éviter que la peinture Chalk Paint™ ne craquelle, attendez au moins 24 heures avant d’allumer le radiateur. La chaleur peut faire craqueler la peinture lorsqu’elle sèche (ce qu’Annie utilise parfois à son avantage selon les résultats souhaités !
9. *ASTUCE* Si vous avez décidé d’appliquer une couche de cire Chalk Paint™, assurez-vous que le produit est bien sec (patientez plusieurs jours) avant de rallumer le radiateur.
Annie Sloan recently launched two new chalk paint™ colours in France. Athenian Black and Oxford Navy. So lets say hello to Oxford Navy!
Oxford Navy is an inky, traditional navy blue which evokes the strong, august blue of academic insignia and fountain pens, as well as the rich pigment indigo blue so synonymous with traditional Indian block printing.
This classic but contemporary kitchen has been given a new lease of life with a lick of Chalk Paint™ in Oxford Navy. A fresh coat of Chalk Paint™ is an excellent alternative to redoing your entire kitchen, and as demonstrated here, the end result is fresh, smart and beautiful. Just be sure to use Chalk Paint™ Wax or Lacquer to protect and seal the paint. Apply Chalk Paint™ in thin layers to shiny surfaces such as melamine kitchen cabinets, although wooden surfaces such as these cupboards and kitchen caddy will not require any special measures.
Introducing a new colour from Annie SLoan. For a long time people have been asking for a true black and here it is. There has always been Graphite in the Annie Sloan range which many people think of as a black. However Graphite is really a slate grey and not a true black. Athenian Black is a true, deep black developed to reflect the opaque figures and dramatic silhouetted shapes painted on Ancient Greek ceramics.
Annie was inspired by the huge collection of Ancient Greek pottery at the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford to create this opaque pitch black colour. Athenian Black has been designed with an opulence of pigment in order to suggest impenetrable shadow, like the black used to render silhouetted figures on terracotta coloured clay ware in Classical times.
The seat of this IKEA stool was first painted in Chalk Paint™ in Arles, then painted with Athenian Black, then sealed with Clear Chalk Paint™ Wax. Annie then used an artist’s knife to scratch out a Greek-style likeness of a dog, revealing the Arles beneath the black. She then brushed away the scraped off paint and Waxed to finish and protect.
This baroque bed frame is the perfect stage for the pitch-black pigment-packed drama of Chalk Paint™ in Athenian Black. The colour has been allowed to take centre stage in this otherwise neutral room. Just two coats of Chalk Paint™ and a coat of Clear Chalk Paint™ Wax over the entire piece to protect and perfect for years of nights to come. The bed side table is an IKEA stool which has been upcycled with Country Grey and Clear Chalk Paint™ Wax.
Essayez les couleurs sur le tapis Annie Sloan MixMat™, en utilisant différentes associations de coloris Chalk Paint™. L’ajout de blanc Pure à votre couleur Chalk Paint™ éclaircira votre palette.
Ajoutez à présent les motifs. Utilisez un Annie Sloan Rouleaux éponge pour appliquer différents pochoirs en plusieurs endroits. Annie a ici utilisé les pochoirs Petrushka, Circles et Valeska.
Vous pouvez créer vos motifs avec toutes sortes de supports. Annie a enroulé de la ficelle autour d’un rectangle en bois, elle a peint la ficelle en Barcelona Orange, puis a tamponné le support sur les rebords du coffre.
Que peut-on utiliser d’autre pour appliquer la peinture ? Essayez avec une tête de boulon que vous trempez dans la couleur Greek Blue de Chalk Paint™ pour créer des ronds.
Quand vous êtes satisfait du résultat, poncez le meuble peint à l’aide d’un papier à poncer à grain fin Annie Sloan. Cela fera ressortir les superpositions de pochoirs, créant un look rustique et dépouillé.
La cire s’applique très facilement sur vos meubles peints. Suivez les conseils d’Annie Sloan pour appliquer la cire Chalk Paint™ Wax et vous obtiendrez une excellente finition très durable.
Avant d’appliquer la cire, peignez votre meuble en effectuant des mouvements dans tous les sens avec le pinceau. Veillez à ne pas appliquer une pression excessive. On recherche à répartir la peinture de manière uniforme.
Il est important de recouvrir toute la peinture. Vérifiez que vous êtes bien passé partout. Si ce n’est pas le cas, appliquez de la cire sur les endroits oubliés.
À l’aide d’un chiffon non pelucheux, essuyez délicatement la surface cirée pour enlever tout surplus de cire.
*Facultatif* Pour une belle finition, laissez la cire sécher 24 heures avant de faire briller le jour suivant à l’aide d’un chiffon propre et non pelucheux.
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La cire à dorer Gilding Wax d’Annie Sloan permet d’ajouter des motifs à vos objets peints en toute simplicité. Suivez les conseils d’Annie pour appliquer la cire à dorer Gilding Wax sur votre mobilier peint et obtenez une finition luxueuse en un rien de temps.
Utilisez du ruban de masquage pour délimiter la zone à dorer. Vous pouvez faire de même avec un pochoir si vous le souhaitez.
The first thing to do was to remove the seat cushion. In this case it was relatively simple. Just a case of undoing five screws underneath the chair.
Before painting it is worth noting that all materials are different. Some will absorb more of the paint than others. Man made materials may not absorb it at all. So before painting the whole thing always try a test patch somewhere inconspicuous first. Make sure you are happy with the results before proceeding any further.
The idea is to soak the paint into the fabric. Therefore the paint needs to be very thin. Simply add water until you get your desired consistency. I mixed mine in a paint tray and used an Annie Sloan n°8 round brush to apply it. This type of brush can hold a lot of paint and definitely makes life a lot easier.
First up was the cushion.
By the way that is not me in the photo. For this particular project I was assisted by Astrid from Annie Sloan France. Below is a picture of the seat drying in the sun.
The next step was the chair itself. Bear in mind that if there is a pattern on the material it may show through. If you not happy with that it is possible to add more coats of paint. This chair had three coats but I think I could have possibly got away with two!
After having applied a couple of coats of Annie Sloan Provence Chalk Paint™ to the fabric the frame was painted in French Linen. After this the whole thing was waxed including the fabric with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint clear wax. Before waxing the fabric it may be necessary to lightly sand the fabric if has dried hard or crispy.This will loosen the fabric and let it have a bit of give. By apply the wax it will protect and seal the paint. It will also give the fabric a leather feel.
Here’s the final finish.
Next time we will look at painting a headboard.
To buy Annie Sloan Chalk Paint in France click here.
1. Large Paint brush (n.16): Ideal for painting walls, long flat surfaces, doors, floors.Basically think of anything with a lot of surface area.
2. Medium Paint Brush (n.12): All the in-between sized jobs. Basically anything that has a lot of changing levels or carved in interiors. Anything average sized, kitchen cabinets, interiors, etc.
3. Small Paint Brush (n. 8): Ideal for painting chair spindles, ladder-back designs, petite furniture, trim, drawer fronts, carved or ornate wood, stencils.
The smaller you go, the less weighted the brush, and the more control you often have.
How to hold the brush.
The easiest way is to hold the brush by the ferrule ( this is the large silver coloured collar on the brush). BY holding it this way you get a lot more control over the brush and it doesn’t make your hands as tired from holding the brush.
Wax Brushes:
There are two sizes of wax brushes available.
1. Large Wax Brush (n.26 – Long, solid, tapered handle): If you used a Large Paint Brush, you may want to consider waxing with something with an equivalent coverage. The larger waxing brush works well on surfaces that have a lot of area because it covers a bigger diameter.
2. Small Wax Brush (n.22 – Short, ergonomic handle): I personally find this to be the easier of the two brushes as the design is more ergonomic. This is our go-to size for typical projects & is more cost effective if budget is a factor.
How to Care for Your Brush
When buying any new paintbrush (regardless of the type of painting you are going to do) giving your brush a first time conditioning session will help you have a happier painting experience.
What is conditioning?
When you condition your brush, you’re essentially releasing any stray bristles that were never submerged into the ferrule when the adhesive set. Take your brush in hand and give the bristles a couple of firm taps on a hard surface. Think of it as giving the stray bristles a nudge upwards; not a lot of force is required though. Then take the brush and fan through the brush a few times to surface those loose bristles. Take them out and give your brush a rinse through with water.
Always let your brushes dry on a flat surface on a paper towel or clean rag so they retain their bristle shape and so that water doesn’t continuously drip down to the handle. You may also drip dry them by hanging them upside down from a hook. Avoid blow drying them, they’ll air dry on their own overnight. If you want to start a project right away, just take a cloth and squeeze out the excess water!
Stray bristles are not indicative of the quality of a brush. How a brush holds paint and the overall finish it can achieve are the only true testaments to brushes.
Cleaning Your Brush (after projects)
All of the Annie Sloan natural brushes are made from entirely natural boar bristle and are made in Italy. Just think of how well you treat the hair on your head. The use of harsh cleaners is not necessary to clean your brush. For cleaning, mild grease-cutting dish soap works effectively with a coarse sponge. If you rinse your brush immediately after painting, just warm water is often enough. But if you wouldn’t use harsh solvents on your hair, don’t use them on a natural hair brush! (You’ll get more breakage and shedding over time.) The brushes are made with split-ends intentionally – they continue to split and fan out for the best paint coverage. It softens your strokes and allows the paint to move freely through the bristles. Let it do the work for you! Avoid bleach. You really don’t need anything that harsh!
Look after your tools and they will paint beautifully for many projects to come.
Annie Sloan brushes – are they worth it ?
Short answer: Yes. A lot of thought went into the Annie Sloan brushes and it becomes instantly evident when using them with Chalk Paint™. The brushes (from the bristles to the adhesives used) have been designed to the highest standard and made to hold the unique consistency of Annie’s paint and her waxes. They also have an oversized ferrule and a rounded form that hold thicker paints with more versatility. You have the option of painting rustically or painting in a modern style with just one brush. In the long term you will save on the amount of product you use and of course the amount of time spent on your projects. This is also true of annie’s wax brush since waxing is the final aesthetic touch to your furniture. A fine artist always uses high-quality paint brushes and a make-up artist always uses high quality facial brushes – investing in your brush will provide you with the most successful and rewarding Chalk Paint™ experience.
As summer approaches and we once more venture in to our gardens to enjoy the sun, some of you no doubt will be looking around and thinking isn’t it about time to refresh and paint tired or worn looking painted woodwork or garden furniture.Edit – it is currently 32° outside. Summer is here 🙂
One of the wonderful things about Chalk Paint™ is that it sticks to just about anything. And some things you really don’t want it to. Case in point was when we had a dog and it landed up with a very nice painted tail. Yes a black and white collie with an Emporer’s silk tail ! Very fetching! Fortunately it washed out very easily. Now, most of us will have used Chalk Paint™ on furniture, walls and floors inside your houses but today we are going to move outside the house. Did you know that Chalk Paint™ even works outdoors ?! Oh yes, it is particularly good on brick, concrete, stone and terracotta – and there’s no need to wax. You can even breathe new life in to that tired looking garden furniture.
Now hold on a minute! Here are a few things to bear in mind before rushing outside with your paint brush in one hand and a pot of Chalk Paint™ in the other. What? What can possibly go wrong?? Well, First of all it will fade in the sun. Secondly it does age gracefully with the elements. Importantly bear in mind that it is a water-based decorative paint and does not have any weatherproof or protective properties. Let me repeat that. It is a decorative paint and not a protective paint. Depending on the look you want, and conditions of where you are, you may find it will need a fresh coat periodically.
I am sure I have mentioned this somewhere before but please remember Chalk Paint™ is not recommended for teak or other oily woods. To avoid any dissappointment always try painting a small test area first! The majority of issues that arise when people paint wooden garden furniture – you may be unaware that it is teak or another oily wood, or it may have been treated with something to make it more weather resistant (eg Cuprinol, Ducks back etc). Bear in mind that using a water based paint on a surface that is designed to resist water is never going to be easy. All of these things can affect the adhesion of the paint, and as I have already said the best advise is to paint a test patch if you are not sure.
Some colours can fade quite quickly if they are used in an area that is exposed to very strong sunlight – this is particularly the case with reds. Oh the joys of living in sunny France! A water based exterior varnish with UV protection is advisable if this is likely to be an issue. On garden furniture, we would strongly recommend a coat of water-based exterior varnish which will protect against stains and keep the finish looking good for much longer. For the best results get a varnish with UV protection to prevent colour fading.
So far I have mentioned using a water based exterior varnish and here is why. Wax and Lacquer are not suitable for outdoor use. Both of these are water resistant finishes, but not completely non permeable – water can get underneath the sealant and cause the paint to flake or bubble. And apart from anything else in hot sun any wax will melt and disappear and it will also make floor lacquer turn yellow. Don’t waste your time or money doing this as it will quickly be undone.
If you are painting an outdoor piece ‘in situ’, wait for a spell of good weather and certainly not when rain is imminent (Yes I know, easier said than done at this time of year). Your piece should be COMPLETELY dry before you begin. If you can leave it to dry in the sun after painting, this will help the paint to bond with the surface. You are basically baking the paint onto the surface to creating a tougher finish.
There are of course exceptions to every rule and perhaps this post is erring on the safe side of things but if you don’t want a perfectly painted look then Chalk Paint™. And I hope all of you reading this will continue to do so! There are some amazing projects out there – trucks, cars and caravans to name but a few! If after reading this you would prefer to buy a paint that is more suitable to exterior use please contact us with details of what you would like to paint and the type of finish you would like to achieve.
UPDATE
Since writing this article back in 2017 Annie Sloan has brought out a brand new Chalk Paint Lacquer for you to use outdoors. Chalk Paint™ Lacquer is a hard-wearing, water-based polyacrylic varnish with built-in UV protection. Use it over Chalk Paint™ for a robust finish that will withstand general wear and tear – perfect for dining room tables, outdoor furniture, floors and skirting boards. It goes on perfectly clear and dries quickly without yellowing over time.